The Fairmont Copley Plaza Hotel

Here is a special treat: a viewing of the Copley Plaza Hotel. I LOVE beautiful hotels and this one is breathtaking. It is historic and grand with decadent, luxurious interiors. Naturally, it has seen its share of famous visitors including jazz greats like Billie Holiday, Ella Fitzgerald and Duke Ellington. Countless other distinguished people have stayed here too, like President William McKinley and Babe Ruth. Clearly it has something for everyone. Stop by like I did if you are in the Back Bay neighborhood and marvel at its charm. You won't be disappointed. 

Formaggio Kitchen

Yesterday morning I braved the winter cold and drove to Formaggio Kitchen, an institution in Cambridge and a foodie's paradise. In my research to find the area's best grocer and specialty food store, Formaggio Kitchen's name came up again and again. It was only a matter of time before I visited it myself. I am not much of a cook myself, but I have embraced the food movements of the past ten years as much as anyone (one of my favorite articles on the subject: "How Food Replaced Art as High Culture"). Moreover, I love nothing more than smart packaging. So it was a real treat to visit Formaggio Kitchen and take notice of its wonderfully curated selection of items. The tea in the last picture, for example, is made by a company I have followed since their beginning, but never had the opportunity to try (they are based in New York). I cannot tell you how delightful it was to stumble upon their goods and have the chance to purchase them. In addition to my Bellocq tea, I left with a beer vinegar from Italy, a pair of raspberry french macaroons, hot chocolate from France and honey from Napa Valley. All in all a good start! They are first and foremost a cheese store, but I was too in awe of their specialty goods to give my full attention to their artisan cheese. A reason to quickly return...

Formaggio Kitchen also offers a number of classes and serves as a true community center. A sampling of their classes includes:

-The Science of Cheese

-Beer and Cheese 101

-Hands-on Pasta Workshop

-The Art + Science of Salami 

-Brave the Caves: An Underground Cheese Lesson 

-Feeling Sheepish: Brebis, Pecorino, and Beyond

I should mention that most of their classes for the next two months area already sold out...

For those who do not live in the area, they have a full shop online where you can purchase any of their items as well as baskets and gift certificates. You can even purchase a Mac and Cheese Bundle, which includes Cabot Clothbound Cheddar cheese, Parmigiano Reggiano and Marcel Petite Comte (and pasta too!). 

Sounds perfect for a cold winter's evening....! 

Trinity Church

 As many times as I have visited Boston, I never once thought of entering Trinity Church. Of course, I have passed by it on numerous occasions and noticed its architecture with awe or indifference, depending on the day. I've seen its name appear time and time again on Boston travel guides and yet somehow ignored the recommendation to tour it myself. Until this past weekend, that is. On Sunday after the 11:15 service, I took advantage of Trinity Church's only free tour of the week, led by an incredibly informative docent named Peter. Thanks to his enlightening commentary, I learned a great deal about the church's origins and the individuals who played a part in its creation.

 It was a man by the name of H.H. Richardson who designed this great building, in a style that became known as Richardsonian Romanesque or Romanesque Revival. Taking inspiration from the Romanesque style of earlier periods, Richardson added color and warmth, thereby illuminating the space. The result of this richness, along with a Greek cross plan and the total lack of any columns, is that visitors feel extremely welcomed. I certainly did. An young artist called John La Farge (along with his team) was the one actually responsible for the 22,000 square feet of decoration. Miraculously, it took him and his team only five months to complete all the murals and other decorative features. 

The stained glass came from a variety of different studios, including William Morris's and Clayton & Bell. Edward Burne-Jones, famed member of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood, was a part of Morris's team and left his mark on more than one stained glass. I had no idea. What was both thrilling and interesting was how unique each set of stained glass windows looked, depending on which studio was responsible. In a way, it's strange that they all call Trinity their home because each has its own style and personality. 

This spring, PBS will air a special on the "Ten Buildings That Changed America." Trinity Church is number two on their list and after touring its interior, I can see why. Though the architect and a majority of the artists studied in Europe (and most of the stained glass came from European studios), the church feels distinctively American. It does not feel at all like the grand cathedrals of France or Belgium that I toured years ago. The materials are different; the history is different. It did not feel stark or isolating. On the contrary, the site felt truly democratic in nature. And when I left, I left feeling proud of its presence. It truly was spellbinding. 

*** 

For those with curious minds, the other nine buildings that changed America (according to PBS) are:

1.Virginia State Capitol-Richmond, Virginia, 1788

2. Wainwright Building-St. Louis, Missouri, 1891

3. Robie House-Chicago, IL, 1910

4. Highland Park Ford Plant-Highland Park, Michigan, 1910

5. Southdale Center-Edina, Minnesota, 1956

6. Seagram Building-New York, New York, 1958

7. Dulles International Airport-Chantilly, Virginia, 1962

8. Vanna Venturi House-Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, 1964

9. Walt Disney Concert Hall-Los Angeles, CA-2003

The African Meeting House

Tucked away in a corner of Beacon Hill lies the African Meeting House, along with the Museum of African American History. In honor of Martin Luther King, Jr. Day, I ventured out to visit both. In truth, the museum was much smaller than I imagined it to be, but I was struck by the loveliness of the meeting house, which was originally built in 1806. A recent, $9.5-million-dollar project has restored the meeting house to its 1855 appearance and I found it both warm and inviting. 

The meeting house was actually home to a number of different activities. First, it served as a church (to which it bears the title of the oldest black church edifice still standing in the country today). Secondly, the space was used for private educational classes. But most importantly, it was the site of anti-slavery meetings and discussions. It was here that the most famous of abolitionists conducted much of their business, abolitionists like William Lloyd Garrison and Frederick Douglass. Before today, I had no idea that the north slope area of Beacon Hill, where the meeting house is located, was home to the all-free black community of Boston. 

The African Meeting House is just one stop of many along the Black Heritage Trail. 

Other landmarks include:

-Robert Gold Shaw and 54th Regiment Memorial

-George Middleton House

-The Phillips School

-John J. Smith House

-Charles Street Meeting House

-John Coburn House

If you're exploring the Freedom Trail, consider visiting the stops along the Black Heritage Trail as well and most especially this beautiful, newly restored African Meeting House. 

Ice Skating at Kendall Square

In honor of the first Pittsburgh Penguins game of the season (as a Pittsburgh native, I am naturally an ardent, obsessive fan), I am including a couple photographs of a trip we took to the community Ice Skating Rink at Kendall Square a few weeks ago.  The ice rink is small yet popular and as you can imagine, a favorite spot for the children of Cambridge. It was a fun excursion for a winter's afternoon, but we'll go to a larger rink next time. 

I confess I know very little of Kendall Square except for the cinema and a very nice cafe called Voltage that also serves as an art gallery. I love the names of their exotic flavored lattes,  names like Madame X (earl grey infused white chocolate ganache) or The Thieving Magpie (traditional almond rapture). But beyond that, the community is pretty unknown to me. I'll have to do more research! As for now, time to return to my completely decadent Saturday afternoon of lying in bed and watching Pittsburgh sports games. Ah how my heart flutters. 

A Boston Soundtrack

A sampling of the songs 
that have become my Boston soundtrack : 

1. Max Richter's recomposition of Vivaldi's Four Seasons. There's nothing I've listened to more in the past two months. 

2.  This absolutely perfect song by the band Rhye. 

3.Alt-J's entire "An Awesome Wave" album and most especially this intro. 

4. Mychael Danna's now award-winning score of "Life of Pi" 

5. Every song off Carla Morrison's album "Déjenme Llorar." She is a poetess. 

A Rose on Beacon Hill

Over the weekend I found myself once again venturing into the historic neighborhood of Beacon Hill. This time it was to visit the Nichols House Museum located at 55 Mount Vernon Street. As soon as I entered through the doorway, I was greeted by two cheerful and very friendly docents. The house was originally built in 1804 but the rooms have been preserved and kept in the style of its last owner, Rose Standish Nichols, who I learned was quite an extraordinary lady. She lived in the house from 1885 until 1960 and decorated it with her own particular, exquisite taste. Nearly everything in the house belonged to her and it was hard to keep track of all her treasures- everywhere I looked I seemed to find one. But she was not only a remarkable collector, she was also a suffragist, a pacifist (they always seem to go hand in hand) as well as a landscape gardener who produced three books on the subject. As a lover of good conversation, she regularly used her home as a salon and threw countless tea parties as well (she made her own tea, but I was told it wasn't very good-still, I would have gone despite that). She had two sisters who were also somewhat unconventional women for their time: Marian ran for the State Legislature in 1920 and the youngest daughter Margaret taught carpentry (not surprisingly, they shared Rose's passion for social issues). What a pleasure it was to hear the history of such strong, interesting women. 

When I returned home, I read an article Rose had written for House Beautiful in 1910 on "Individuality in Interior Decoration," that was available to read on the Nichols House Museum website. I loved her opening lines:

"Simplicity and sincerity should form the keynote of the interior of our homes. If the inside of a house is pretentiously elaborate or if it does not suggest its owner's individuality, it is an obvious failure. Try to turn your home into a haven for rest and work and recreation, make it a real home..." 

and

"Comfort and convenience should never be sacrificed for the sake of following worn-out precedents or of exhibiting a forced admiration for 'high art.' Where we live and love and have the best part of our being is no place for any sort of pretense." 

Perhaps my favorite part of the house was the simplest part of all: the butler's pantry, which I photographed above (it is the seventh picture). I wanted it for myself! And I left Beacon Hill wanting it to be my very own neighborhood. I am falling in love with it. 

Special thanks to Emma and Maureen who were so very kind to me on my visit. I cannot wait to return and share the museum's special space with my mother. 

To the Aquarium

Many moons ago, I visited the New England Aquarium and the only thing I can remember is the time I spent goofing off with friends in the gift shop. Normally I'm not too inclined to visit aquariums (mainly because there are so many other places I would prefer to visit), but ever since we moved to Boston I've felt a strange pull towards it, as if I absolutely must go. So when my dear friend Abby came into town to visit, we decided it was the right opportunity. And I found that despite the rather high entrance fee, I truly enjoyed seeing all the exhibits and the many species that dwell within them. Naturally, the sea lions and seals are a fan favorite-their playfulness and energy is infectious to see. But what I really appreciated, in a way that I wasn't able to all those years ago, was how each tank was curated. Each one was designed differently, obviously to reflect the diverse living environments of the sea, but it seemed as if special artistic care was taken in their presentation. From a visual standpoint, the tanks were like mini artworks in themselves. And for someone with a limited interest in marine biology, it made the experience very enjoyable and worthwhile. 

Pursuits of a Winter Morning

This morning is a perfectly calm Sunday  enjoyed in bed drinking tea and playing with books and stamps. The tea is a relaxing one-pear ginger white tea from Trader Joe's, complemented wonderfully with a milano cookie; the books are beautiful ones to peruse-first, a Venice Sketchbook comprised of watercolour paintings and sketches and secondly, Vivian Swift's latest travel journal, this one on visiting France. And finally, I have with me an assortment of recently purchased stamps that I have wasted no time in using-as you can see in the first picture, I've used them to decorate a set of simple cards for my correspondences. 

So here I am, with my tea and books and stamps and my yellow matalasse bedspread along with the joy of the early Sunday hours. 

L.A. Burdick Chocolate Shop and Cafe

Whenever I move, the first places I become attached to are cafes. To me, they are like little welcoming homes dotted across the landscape. When I studied in Berlin, I spent much of my free time exploring the dozens upon dozens of cafes, finding myself delighted with each one.  The very words cafe, coffeehouse, chocolaterie are near holy words in my mind. I love conjuring up images in my mind of the institution through the ages, from the eighteenth-century coffeehouse to the cafes in Central and Eastern Europe at the turn of the century, filled with individuals seeking change and innovation as they slowly sipped their drinks. I love imagining them as sites of both intellectual activity but also quiet comfort. The doors of the cafe are always open to me if I want to write the next great American novel or simply drink an espresso and stare at the ceiling. I can do as much or as little as I like and it is still the perfect setting for either. 

I am slowly picking and choosing my favorites in the city, but the L.A. Burdick Chocolate Shop and Cafe in Harvard Square has quickly made it onto that list. You can see by it's colorful, striped walls how inviting and warm it is and every time I have visited, it's entirely packed. Most people come for one thing: the hot chocolate. For the first time since I left Europe, I have tasted true, rich hot chocolate just as it's supposed to be-so thick that only a little is what you need. But what perfection it is! They offer their hot chocolate using either milk or dark varieties and also have country-specific options. I confess that pour moi it has been the Peppermint Milk Hot Chocolate every time. 

Nothing tastes better on a cold, winter's afternoon in New England. 

A Winter Stroll Past Harvard

The first time I visited Harvard was well over a year ago. I remember feeling almost nervous as I climbed the stairs from the underground T that led to Harvard Square. Surely to walk on the campus of Harvard meant that my mind had to be at its sharpest, my mental behavior at its best. Would others think I was a student? I could pretend I was if I so wanted, if only for that afternoon. And of course I wanted! It is a wonderful thing to pretend in such occasions.  My grandfather went to Harvard-a grandfather I never met-and as I stood in the Harvard Yard for the first time, it was as if I was meeting him as well. 

Now, the campus and its surrounding area have become quite familiar to me and the awe of the place is not what it used to be. Still, the buildings hold an air of tantalizing mystery about them and I want to know the secrets of their  architecture and the stories of the students who studied within them.  All in good time, I am sure.

For now, it is pleasant enough to walk Harvard's paths and take photographs of everything that is beautiful to me. It was very romantic this past weekend, what with its snow covered lawns and clear blue skies, home to students wrapped in scarves and carrying satchels and trying desperately to think important thoughts. I may even have tried alongside them. When in Rome...